Yacht Charters: Sailing the Mediterranean in Style

I had never been on a sailboat before I stepped onto a 44-foot Beneteau in the marina at Lavrion, Greece. Seven days later, I did not want to get off. We had sailed through the Cyclades, anchored in coves so sheltered that the water was glass, eaten fresh-caught fish at tavernas accessible only by boat, and fallen asleep under stars with no light pollution for a hundred miles. Here is what you need to know to plan a similar trip.

The Ionian Islands, Greece: Best for Beginners

The Ionian Sea, on the west coast of Greece, is the most popular starting point for first-time yacht charterers, and for good reason. The sailing conditions are among the gentlest in the Mediterranean, with predictable afternoon winds of 10 to 15 knots from the northwest, calm seas, and short distances between islands. A typical seven-day itinerary covers 100 to 150 nautical miles, with daily sails of two to four hours. The islands of Lefkada, Kefalonia, Ithaca, and Meganisi offer protected anchorages, well-equipped marinas, and harborside tavernas where you can tie up and walk ashore for dinner.

I chartered through Sunsail, one of the largest charter companies in Greece, from their base in Lefkada. A 40-foot monohull (Beneteau Oceanis 40.1) in mid-September cost 3,200 euros ($3,480) for seven days, plus about 400 euros for the mandatory transit log (end cleaning, bed linen, and outboard motor). Adding a skipper costs about 150 to 180 euros per day, which I recommend for first-timers. Our skipper, Giorgos, had been sailing the Ionian for 20 years and knew every anchorage, taverna, and hidden beach in the area. The total cost for two couples, including the skipper, provisioning, and fuel, came to about 2,500 euros ($2,720) per couple for the week.

The highlight of the Ionian is the lack of crowds compared to the Aegean. We anchored in Ormos Vathy on Meganisi, a bay so quiet that the only sounds were cicadas and the occasional splash of a fish jumping. The water was clear enough to see the bottom at 10 meters. We swam, kayaked to a sea cave, and then walked 10 minutes to the village of Spartochori for a dinner of grilled octopus and local white wine at a taverna called O Nikolas, where the bill for four people came to 80 euros ($87). The Ionian is at its best in May, June, and September, when the Meltemi wind that affects the Aegean has not yet started or has already died down.

The Amalfi Coast, Italy: Sailing in Style

The Amalfi Coast is one of the most dramatic coastlines in the Mediterranean, with cliffs plunging into turquoise water, pastel-colored villages stacked on hillsides, and a cuisine that is worth the trip alone. Chartering a yacht here gives you access to coves and beaches that are inaccessible by road, and the experience of approaching Positano or Ravello from the water is unforgettable. The main charter bases are Naples and Salerno, both of which have well-equipped marinas and a range of charter companies.

A bareboat charter (where you sail the yacht yourself) requires an ICC (International Certificate of Competence) or equivalent sailing qualification. If you do not have one, a skippered charter is the way to go. I booked through Moorings, and a 44-foot Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 440 with skipper cost about 6,500 euros ($7,080) for seven days in October. The Amalfi Coast is more expensive than Greece because marina fees are higher (30 to 80 euros per night for a 44-foot yacht in Positano or Amalfi) and provisioning costs more. Budget about 1,500 to 2,000 euros ($1,635 to $2,180) per couple per week beyond the charter fee for marinas, fuel, dining, and provisioning.

A seven-day itinerary from Naples typically includes the islands of Ischia and Procida, the Amalfi Coast towns of Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello, and the island of Capri. The anchorage at Marina Grande on Capri is stunning but crowded in July and August. In October, we had the bay largely to ourselves. The Blue Grotto on Capri is accessible by small boat, and the entrance fee is 14 euros ($15) per person. For a memorable meal, Ristorante Lo Guarracino in Positano, perched on the cliffside, serves fresh pasta with seafood caught that morning. A meal for two with wine costs about 70 euros ($76).

The Croatian Coast: A Thousand Islands to Explore

Croatia's Dalmatian Coast has over 1,200 islands, islets, and reefs, making it one of the most varied cruising grounds in the Mediterranean. The Kornati Islands National Park, a collection of 89 mostly uninhabited islands, offers some of the best anchorages in the Adriatic. The water is clear and warm (22 to 26 degrees Celsius in summer), and the sailing distances between islands are short, making it ideal for relaxed cruising. The main charter bases are Split, Dubrovnik, and Zadar, all of which have international airports and well-stocked marinas.

I chartered a 38-foot catamaran (Lagoon 380) from the Moorings base in Split for a week in late August. The catamaran cost 4,800 euros ($5,230) for seven days. Catamarans are more expensive than monohulls but offer more space, stability, and shallow draft, which allows you to anchor closer to beaches. The total cost for a family of four, including skipper, provisioning, and marina fees, came to about 5,500 euros ($5,990). Croatian marina fees are reasonable: ACI Marina Rovinj charges about 80 euros ($87) per night for a 38-foot catamaran, including water and electricity.

A one-week itinerary from Split might include Hvar (the most fashionable island, known for its nightlife and lavender fields), Vis (a quieter island with excellent restaurants and the Blue Cave), Korcula (the alleged birthplace of Marco Polo), and the Elaphiti Islands near Dubrovnik. In Hvar, eat at Gariful, a seafood restaurant on the waterfront where the fish is displayed on ice and you choose your own. A whole grilled sea bass for two with sides and wine costs about 60 euros ($65). In Vis, the restaurant Konoba Stoncica, accessible only by boat or a 30-minute walk, serves lamb peka (meat and vegetables cooked under a bell-shaped lid) that requires ordering three hours in advance.

"The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever." — Jacques Cousteau

The French Riviera: Luxury Charter Territory

The French Riviera, from Saint-Tropez to Monaco, is the most expensive yacht charter destination in the Mediterranean, and the experience reflects that. This is the domain of crewed superyachts, Michelin-starred restaurants accessible by tender, and marinas where a 60-foot yacht is considered small. If your budget allows, the experience is extraordinary. A crewed 60-foot sailing yacht from Yachtico costs about 15,000 to 25,000 euros ($16,350 to $27,250) per week, including a professional captain and chef.

For a more accessible experience, the charter base at Saint-Mandrier-sur-Mer, near Toulon, offers a range of monohulls and catamarans at lower prices than the ports of Nice or Cannes. A 42-foot monohull from Dream Yacht Charter costs about 4,500 euros ($4,900) per week in September. From this base, you can sail to the Porquerolles Islands, a protected national park with crystal-clear water and no cars, and to the Calanques of Cassis, dramatic limestone fjords that are best explored by boat.

The marina at Port Grimaud, a purpose-built Venetian-style village between Saint-Tropez and Sainte-Maxime, charges about 50 to 70 euros ($54 to $76) per night for a 42-foot yacht and is within walking distance of restaurants and shops. For provisions, the morning market in Saint-Tropez (Tuesdays and Saturdays) is one of the best in Provence, with fresh produce, cheese, bread, and local wine. A week of provisioning for four people, including wine and basic supplies, costs about 400 to 500 euros ($435 to $545).

Practical Tips for First-Time Charterers

Choosing between a monohull and a catamaran is the first decision. Monohulls are less expensive (typically 30 to 40 percent cheaper than a catamaran of the same length), sail better upwind, and offer a more traditional sailing experience. Catamarans are more spacious, more stable at anchor (which matters if anyone in your group is prone to seasickness), and have a shallower draft that allows access to shallower anchorages. For families with children or groups of four or more, a catamaran is usually the better choice. For couples or small groups of experienced sailors, a monohull is more economical and more fun to sail.

Provisioning is a critical part of the experience. Most charter bases have supermarkets within walking distance or a short taxi ride. In Greece, the Sklavenitis and AB Vassilopoulos chains have good selections. In Croatia, Konzum and Tommy are the main supermarkets. I recommend provisioning for breakfasts and lunches on board (yogurt, fruit, bread, cheese, cold cuts, pasta, and simple sauces) and eating dinner ashore at tavernas and restaurants. This approach keeps food costs reasonable while allowing you to experience the local cuisine. Budget about 30 to 50 euros ($33 to $54) per person per day for on-board meals and 25 to 40 euros ($27 to $44) per person for dinners ashore.

Marina reservations are essential in popular destinations during peak season. In Greece, the Dionysios marina in Lefkada and the Gouvia marina in Corfu fill up weeks in advance. In Croatia, the ACI marina chain (acimarinas.com) accepts online reservations and has marinas along the entire coast. In Italy, marinas in Positano and Capri have limited berths and should be booked through your charter company. If marinas are full, anchoring is free in most Mediterranean countries, and many anchorages have excellent protection from wind and waves. The Navionics app ($35 per year) provides detailed nautical charts, anchorage information, and marina contact details.