The water was the color of milk, thick with silica and warm enough that I could stay in for an hour without shivering. I was in the Blue Lagoon, Iceland's most famous geothermal spa, floating in a lava field twenty minutes from Reykjavik with a mask of white mud on my face and a cocktail in my hand. The lagoon is man-made, fed by the runoff from a nearby geothermal power plant, and it attracts two million visitors per year. Some travelers dismiss it as a tourist trap. I went in with low expectations and came out relaxed, exfoliated, and unexpectedly moved. There is something primal about bathing in water that has come from the center of the earth.
The Science of the Water
The Blue Lagoon's water is a byproduct of the Svartsengi geothermal power plant, which drills into the earth to extract steam for electricity. The water emerges at two hundred forty degrees Celsius, is used to generate power, and is then discharged into the lava field. The water is rich in silica, algae, and minerals, and it has been shown to help treat psoriasis and other skin conditions. The temperature in the lagoon is maintained at thirty-seven to forty degrees Celsius, and the silica mud is available in wooden buckets around the edge for guests to apply as a face mask. I applied it three times. Each time, my skin felt smoother and softer. Whether this was the minerals or the placebo effect, I do not know. I did not care.
Beyond the Blue Lagoon
The Blue Lagoon is the most famous, but Iceland has dozens of other geothermal pools that are less crowded and more affordable. The Sky Lagoon, near Reykjavik, has an infinity edge that looks out over the ocean and a seven-step ritual that includes cold plunge, dry sauna, and scented steam room. The Secret Lagoon in Fludir is Iceland's oldest swimming pool, built in 1891, and it has a more rustic, local feel. My favorite was the Forest Lagoon in Akureyri, a new development with two pools surrounded by birch trees and a view of the fjord. I visited at midnight in June, when the sun was still above the horizon, and shared the pool with a group of Icelandic teenagers who were celebrating graduation. They were loud, happy, and completely unselfconscious.
The Icelandic Bathing Culture
Bathing is deeply embedded in Icelandic culture. The country has one hundred thirty swimming pools for a population of three hundred seventy thousand, meaning there is one pool for every two thousand eight hundred people. Most towns have a sundlaug, a public geothermal pool, that serves as a community hub. I visited the Laugardalslaug in Reykjavik, a complex of seven pools of varying temperatures, plus hot tubs, steam rooms, and a waterslide. The entrance cost eight dollars. I sat in a hot tub next to a fisherman, a software engineer, and a grandmother with her grandson. They talked about the weather, the government, and the price of fish. The pool was their living room. I was invited into the conversation without hesitation.
Costs and Practicalities
The Blue Lagoon costs seventy-five dollars for a standard entry, which includes a silica mask and a towel. Premium packages with robes, slippers, and a private changing room cost more. Reservations are mandatory and should be booked weeks in advance. I booked a month ahead and chose the first slot at eight in the morning, which meant the lagoon was almost empty for the first hour. Public pools like Laugardalslaug cost eight to twelve dollars and require no reservation. The combination of the Blue Lagoon and local pools offers the best of both worlds: the iconic experience and the authentic one. My total spending on geothermal bathing during a ten-day trip was two hundred dollars. It was the best money I spent in Iceland.
